Three Bottle Christmas Case. Price includes delivery.
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A bottle each of:
Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay Rouge 2014, Burgundy
Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas aux Lieux Dits 2014, Rhone
Chateau d’Aydie Madiran 2011, South-West France
About the Domaine
Robert has shipped every vintage of Roty since the 1985 and still has a few bottles in the cellar. A recent Champ Chenys 1985 was magnificent – earthy, gamey and complex yet still retaining sweet cherry fruit.
Domaine Joseph Roty boasts one of the largest concentrations of old vines in Burgundy, averaging about 65 years. The domaine is fanatical about old vines, they have some of the oldest in France, the living ambassadors of the affinity the Roty’s so obviously feel for their land. Coupled with late picking, which further concentrates yields and with fermentation below 30 degrees, and a cuvaison of three weeks, the structure and complexity is consequentially remarkable and the winemaking uncompromising in achieving this. With a little age these wines develop wonderful aromatics with the characteristic Pinot Noir flavours of black cherry and stone fruit. The old vine fruit contributes the length of flavour and great complexity. Roty’s Charmes Chambertin Cuvée Trѐs Vieilles Vignes is largely harvested from vines of over 120 years.
One of the great domaines of Gevrey. The loss of Joseph’s son Phillipe must have been hard, but his brother Pierre-Jean has taken up the reins and seems to intent on following the families somewhat idiosyncratic, uncompromising path. “Nothing changes” as Madame Roty told us on our last visit. These are not fashion-conscious wines, everything is destemmed, new oak is relatively high, around 50% on the village wines, 60-70% on the Lieux-Dit and 100% on the Grand Cru. They are wines made to age, there is little point opening them young. But when they reach maturity, they can flower into some of the most complex and spellbinding wines I have encountered. A recent bottle of the Marsannay Village 1990 (!) was out of this world, blind I was convinced it was from a much more ‘serious’ appellation. Endlessly complex and perfumed it was a wonderful expression of aged Burgundy.
The Gras family have been making wine in Gigondas since at least the 1870s, today the winery is still on the same site. The modern era here really begins in 1985 when Yves took over his family domaine. His first move was to begin the conversion to organic viticulture, one of the earliest domaines in the village to do so. Yves understood that this was the best way to emphasise his beloved terroir and let it speak clearly. He gained plaudits internationally for his wines which, in the words of Robert Parker, “combined the muscle, richness and fire of a classic Gigondas with a degree of elegance and purity that many wines of this appellation lack.” Yves son Benjamin joined the domaine and is now very much driving things forward, he has been responsible for the conversion to biodynamics and the further emphasis on single vineyard wines. like his father he believes in minimal intervention, low yields, old vines and working with precision and vigour.
The wines have never been better, from the everyday wine Les Plans to the single site Chateauneuf and Gigondas, every bottle delivers quality and excitement, pure fruit and depth.
The Laplace family have owned this domaine since 1927. During this time, they have been at the forefront of the Madiran appellation, using innovative techniques to produce wines which balance Tannat’s tannic spine with rich satisfying fruit.
Madiran is an obscure appellation lying in the foothills of the Pyrenees in south west France. Positioned halfway between the sea and the mountains the region enjoys a varied topography and a complex geology, a mosaic of soils and clays which are ideally suit to the production of fine wines. The red wines are produced from the local Tannat grape, historically seen as almost violently tannic.
The Laplace’s were at the centre of developing methods to tame these tannins, whilst still retaining the savage beauty that makes good Madiran wines so thrilling.
Madiran wines were recently given the oxygen of publicity by a wine-loving cardiovascular professor from St Bartholomew’s Hospital whose research showed that the unique tannic structure of Tannat breaks down cholesterol and helps explain why south west France boasts the lowest incidence of heart disease despite a high fat diet. A top Madiran such as Château d’Aydie from Domaine Laplace will develop well over 20 years. The 2011 is just beginning to open up but will develop beautifully for a decade more.