Guillemain Reuilly Pinot Gris 2021


A wine whose flinty structure, direct flavours and sheer intensity say more about where it is grown, than what is made from






Pinot Gris


Domaine de l'Ermitage & Antoine de la Farge






An exciting new wine! We first encountered it at a wine fair back in January 2023, unlabelled and introduced to us as a new project from our man in Menetou-Salon Antoine de la Farge. On tasting, both Robert and I knew we were onto something special. Quantities would be very low, would we like some? Yes please! Fast forward, and the wine, now labelled and finished, is on its way. Did I say I was excited?

When thinking of Reuilly, which I am sure we all often do, it is sauvignon blanc, not pinot gris, which comes to mind. However a little research soon show that pinot gris is traditional in the appellation, often used to make a pale rose. What I find remarkable about this wine is that it doesn’t taste like a pinot gris from Alsace, much less an Italian pinot grigio. In fact, it is closer to some of the fine loire whites like Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, or Reuilly itself- direct, crisp fruit, a chiselled structure and a sense of flinty minerality at its core. The vineyard sits on Kimmeridgien Clay, the soil which gives us Chablis and Sancerre, so it is perhaps no surprise that it gives the wine such finesse and focus. As it sits in the glass, it does put on weight and develop the grapes classic texture, but this is a wine which conveys as much about where it is grown as what it is made from.

And it is delicious, energetic and full of interest, the nose a basket of citrus, while the palate develops in the glass, developing rich texture and layers of fruit and spice, lemon, lychee and peach, all buttressed by a flinty mineral edge which seems to bring the vineyard soil into one’s glass. My kind of wine. Yes, I am excited!

About the Domaine

This small domaine in the heart of Menetou-Salon was created in 2003 by Laurence and Géraud de Farge. Laurence’s father Bernard was involved in setting up the Menetou-Salon appellation in 1959 and her passion for this land is obvious. They are now in the process of handing over to their son, Antoine.

With just 10 hectares of vines they know every inch of their vineyards and harvest by hand, unusual in these parts. The soils, like Sancerre, are limestone and clay, ideally suited to both Sauvignon Blanc, which makes up 80% of their vines, and Pinot Noir. Yields and quality are controlled by de-budding and careful sorting prior to vinification.

Antoine de la Farge is an ambitious young man and a skilful wine maker. As well as taking over from his parents at Domaine de l’Ermitage in Menetou Salon he has developed a range of wines under his own name, designed to showcase the grapes and appellations of the Eastern Loire. These wines are produced on a small scale and with great care – Antoine works with growers his family have known for years, everything is picked by hand and fermentations happen naturally. The wines are made in stainless steel to emphasise their purity and freshness.


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