40% Grenache Blanc, 20% Clairette, 15% Ugni Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc, 5% Picpoul, 5% Viognier growing on north-facing limestone plots.
It’s fascinating to taste this wine and think about the grapes which make it. One can pick out the richness of Grenache Blanc, the acidity of the Clairette, and the apricot of the Viognier. Each seems to have its solo moment as the wine plays across the palate – but it is the interplay between their characters which makes this blend more than the sum of its parts. I love these Rhone whites at this time of year. Don’t serve it fridge cold, let it warm up a little, to emphasise its texture and richness, when it will show brilliantly alongside roast squash with chili and cumin, or white meats like roast pork, perhaps with fennel.
“This wine is made by Yves and Benjamin Gras at Domaine Santa Duc in Gigondas (who also makes the Vacqueyras this month). Using a devastating and intricate blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Viognier and this is one of the most intellectually stimulating wines of the moment. Layered, floral, magical and also rather steely on the finish, this is a wine with so many flavour facets it defies belief. Happy to act the refreshing glugger but equally at home being challenged with elite cooking, this is a kaleidoscopic and unexpected star.”
Matthew Jukes, Money Week, January 2021