Domaine Rodolphe Demougeot Bourgogne Côte d’Or Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2019

£22.95

With its strikingly precocious cherry perfume and crisp, pure palate this shows just how good a Pinot Noir vintage 2019 is set to be.

Colour

Red

Country

France

Domaine

Domaine Rodolphe Demougeot

Grape

Pinot Noir

Region

Burgundy

Vintage

2019

Description

This wine comes from good land lying below Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot which Rodolphe farms biodynamically. The vines, planted in 1961, grow in clay with a good quantity of iron above limestone bedrock. This gives the wine more character than most Bourgogne vineyards, and Rodolphe tries to bring this out. Fermented in tank before ageing for 10-months in older oak barrels. Dark in colour and quite dense, red berry fruit, freshness to balance the concentration, persistent finish with fine tannins and a touch of sappiness in the fruit.

This is not a cuvée we have bought from Rodolphe before as he makes precious little of it and sells most of it locally. We tasted it in October three months after bottling but there was absolutely no sign of bottle shock, indeed it was strikingly precocious. Fresh cherry aromas of young Pinot leap out of the glass. I noted remarkable purity on both the nose and palate, good acidity, and the influence of old vine fruit which adds colour and depth of flavour. A fine affordable example of how good a Pinot year this vintage promises to be.

About the Domaine

Although based in Meursault it is Rodolphe’s reds which first caught our imagination. They are perfumed and pure, with clearly defined fruit and structure.

Rodolphe is a great friend of Francois Buisson, which is how we came to know this domaine Rodolphe has built his domaine from the small operation he inherited from his grandparents into the 8ha he has today, spread over Pommard, Beaune, and Auxey-Duresses. He uses no chemicals in the vineyard, follows aspects of the biodynamic calander and green harvests early in the season to reduce yields in the pursuit of quality over quantity. He uses a horse to plough in many of his plots. He is beginning to build his reputation so do buy these while they remain such good value!

These are silky wines combining sumptuous, perfumed fruit with a fine grain of tannin. The 2015s are particularly fine. I wish there was a single word for ‘perfume in the mouth’, the beguiling sense of fruit and flowers which seems to rise from the throat upon swallowing. Of course, this is part of a wines finish, but in some cases, Rodolphe’s being one, this is accentuated until it almost becomes a different sensation. On a recent visit Rodolphe opened a Pommard ‘Vignots’ 2005 for us, it was drinking beautifully, not at all old, but beginning to show its complexity and depth. Still lots of primary fruit, lots more to come, really shows what these wines are capable of when well cellared. As Rodolphe said ‘2015 produced wines to age… they will just be ready when they are all finished!’

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