Roche Mer could mean ‘mother rock’ or ‘rock of the sea’, both translations give us an insight into this wine. Two sites, one planted in 1959, the other in 1980, have poor, thin soil over limestone. They are fermented and aged in stainless steel. There’s a sense of ripe succulence on the nose here, peach. The palate is a mix of stone fruit flavours, fresh acids, and an invigorating chalky grip. Really good sense of balance here. This is a top St Veran.
About the Domaine
Standing outside Domaine Gilles Morat one can see the rocks of both Solutre and of Vergisson, the two massive limestone outcrops which tower over their surrounding vineyards. These rocks stand testament to the ancient geological upheaval which formed the land upon which Gille’s and Joëlle’s vines grow and gave them the fascinating terroirs they now exploit.
Based in Vergisson, the highest village in the appellation, Domaine Morat produce wines which combine Pouilly-Fuissé’s ripe, sun kissed fruit with a modern directness and freshness. It is the altitude at which their vineyards sit which gives their wines their cut, as well as the Morat’s meticulous approach to viticulture; as Joëlle said, ‘There are no good cooks with bad ingredients’.
Morat own 6ha of vineyards, 1.5 in St Veran, the rest, divided into 17 parcels, are in Pouilly Fuissé. Not surprisingly for people so dedicated to their terroir, the domaine has been certified organic since 2001. Grass and wildflowers grow in the vines, the rows are ploughed when needed. All the vineyard work is done by hand, the domaine’s small size means that everything can be completed with exacting precision. In the winery fermentations happen in vat or barrel and use natural yeasts. Very little is done, intervention is kept to a minimum, new oak used sparingly, to allow each terroir to show its full potential.