A candidate for 1er Cru when the vineyards are reclassified next year, and perhaps the best vineyard in Pouilly-Fuissé, Sur La Roche covers 17ha and is shared between several growers. Domaine Morat has a great parcel, right at the top of the slope were the high-quality clay barely covers the limestone beneath. Vines planted between 1967 and 1978 with roots deep in the bed rock. 100% in oak, 15% new. Bottled after 11 months on its lees. With its seamless palate and breezy acidity this wine put me in mind of bright sunshine on a cold spring day, it contrasts the warm site and the cool rock below. Finishes with a burst of pink grapefruit.
About the Domaine
Standing outside Domaine Gilles Morat one can see the rocks of both Solutre and of Vergisson, the two massive limestone outcrops which tower over their surrounding vineyards. These rocks stand testament to the ancient geological upheaval which formed the land upon which Gille’s and Joëlle’s vines grow and gave them the fascinating terroirs they now exploit.
Based in Vergisson, the highest village in the appellation, Domaine Morat produce wines which combine Pouilly-Fuissé’s ripe, sun kissed fruit with a modern directness and freshness. It is the altitude at which their vineyards sit which gives their wines their cut, as well as the Morat’s meticulous approach to viticulture; as Joëlle said, ‘There are no good cooks with bad ingredients’.
Morat own 6ha of vineyards, 1.5 in St Veran, the rest, divided into 17 parcels, are in Pouilly Fuissé. Not surprisingly for people so dedicated to their terroir, the domaine has been certified organic since 2001. Grass and wildflowers grow in the vines, the rows are ploughed when needed. All the vineyard work is done by hand, the domaine’s small size means that everything can be completed with exacting precision. In the winery fermentations happen in vat or barrel and use natural yeasts. Very little is done, intervention is kept to a minimum, new oak used sparingly, to allow each terroir to show its full potential.