A new wine for 2020. When the INO passed judgement on Sur la Roche’s claim for 1er Cru status they decided this parcel, the top of the vineyard, was too high, so couldn’t gain the new status. Separated from the lower parcels by a farm track, at 410m it’s 10m above the limit. That’s good news for us, as the site’s 60-year-old vines have given a terrifically tensile wine, packed with flavours of purest peach, lemons and grapefruit, driven by a deep seam of minerality, its impressive concentration lifted by mouth-watering acidity. As it sits in the glass the structure develops and one can smell the limestone. Chablis du Soleil!
About the Domaine
Standing outside Domaine Gilles Morat one can see the rocks of both Solutre and of Vergisson, the two massive limestone outcrops which tower over their surrounding vineyards. These rocks stand testament to the ancient geological upheaval which formed the land upon which Gille’s and Joëlle’s vines grow and gave them the fascinating terroirs they now exploit.
Based in Vergisson, the highest village in the appellation, Domaine Morat produce wines which combine Pouilly-Fuissé’s ripe, sun kissed fruit with a modern directness and freshness. It is the altitude at which their vineyards sit which gives their wines their cut, as well as the Morat’s meticulous approach to viticulture; as Joëlle said, ‘There are no good cooks with bad ingredients’.
Morat own 6ha of vineyards, 1.5 in St Veran, the rest, divided into 17 parcels, are in Pouilly Fuissé. Not surprisingly for people so dedicated to their terroir, the domaine has been certified organic since 2001. Grass and wildflowers grow in the vines, the rows are ploughed when needed. All the vineyard work is done by hand, the domaine’s small size means that everything can be completed with exacting precision. In the winery fermentations happen in vat or barrel and use natural yeasts. Very little is done, intervention is kept to a minimum, new oak used sparingly, to allow each terroir to show its full potential.