The first vintage of this Florence has offered us- previously it went to négociants. We snapped it up of course! Aligoté’s reputation has gone through something of a revolution recently, a re-evaluation of Burgundy’s other white grape that was long overdue. We now ship several from some of our favourite domaines, it is fascinating to taste the myriad different styles and characters the grape can produce given care in the vineyard and winery.
Florence has produced a lovely example, showing spiced apples and stone fruit, great tension and energy. Great with seafood.
About the Domaine
Florence Cholet is an exciting prospect. Widely travelled, she has worked across France, the US and Australia, and has now returned to tiny Corcelles les Arts to take on her family domaine.
She told us that picking date was key in 2020, as she thinks it always is. She doesn’t use much technical analysis, she knows her vineyards, tastes the grapes and looks at the skins when she’s deciding when to harvest.
The domaine no longer uses pesticides or herbicides, the vineyards are ploughed, and all picking is done by hand. The domaine’s old vines give naturally low yields and grape selection, in the vineyard and winery, is severe. Wine making is traditional, using a minimum of technology – new oak is used very sparingly, fermentations happen with natural yeasts and are left to run their course. Florence has increased the length of her white elevage – her whites are now bottled around January, so 13-14 months post-harvest. She does no battonage after the malolactic fermentation to retain freshness. Instead, Florence leaves more lees in the wine – a better way of gaining richness and complexity without oxidation.
Florence’s whites display the vintage’s character with style and energy – she’s outperforming some big names from her seemingly humble sites. Her reds are transparent, perfumed wines which I love to drink young, though something about their balance and energy suggests to me that they will surprise us in the cellar.