A Grand Cru to the north of Riquewihr, old vines, 60 years, growing at 380 meters. The soil is a complex mix of Gypsum, Keuper marl, and dolomite rock, covered in small pebbles. The micro-climate here is particularly good for Riesling. One of Alsace’s most famous sites, known since the Middle Ages. White peach, currant, dried herbs. Big wine! But not overly muscular. Good length, super line and cut. Touch of pearl barley, and a little leather on finish. Bit of extract on gums. Very good.
*Pale gold, with density and substance; the structural presence and breadth that is so compelling in Alsace Riesling. A rumble of thunder – smoke and gunpowder – overlaid with orange and sweet-melon fleshiness. The sweet scented lift of lemon verbena, lemongrass and jasmine. Emphatic and complex. Long, textured and still tensely folded into its youth. I would love to see how this ages. 17.5+/20
About the Domaine
Based in the village of Wettolsheim, Amelie and Charles Sparr are ‘children of the vine’, both from Alsace wine families. Charles comes from a famous negotiant family, while Amelie’s family owned a domaine nearby. When the negotiant business was sold, Charles kept 12ha of vineyards and eventually them with Amelie’s, and their new project was born. Together they have 18ha of vines, including sites in four Grand Cru. Amelie’s family had long farmed biodynamically, and it was clear from the beginning this is the direction they would follow. The domaine was certified by Demeter in 2019. They harvest everything by hand, into small containers to protect the grapes. In the winery they use whole clusters for the whites and a gentle pressing to give the best juice. Fermentations are natural, and of no set length – each cuvée finishes in its own time, before the wines spend around 9 months on the lees. No sulphur is used until a touch before bottling. The reds are de-stemmed and see barrels, but very little new oak is used.