Description
From a single site in the village of Sigolsheim, growing on limestone at 250 meters. Hand harvested, before the grapes are gently taken off their stalks and given a 20 day cold maceration. Fermentations use natural yeasts, and the wines are aged in wood, with little new. Such good colour, a glowing ruby in the glass, while the nose sings with a mélange of fruit and flowers. Taut and focused on the palate, with a fine line of acidity and lots of cool fruit, crisply ripe, really well balanced, and perfumed on the finish, this is excellent pinot noir from the more elegant and refined end of the scale. As the note below mentions, this is best decanted to allow its full perfume to show.
*When first opened and poured, there was a bit of a new-barrel smell and on the palate, new-cut box-leaf hedges dominated like a stately-home head gardener got hold of the wine and topiaried it into discipline. Nervous. Highly strung, but like an over-tight piano wire dusted with cedar shavings. I wondered if it just needed time or was simply too over-wrought. Three days later, I came back to it, and the wine had opened like a peony in full unfurled beauty. Heady, the fruit sweet and ample, soaring like a soprano voice in a cathedral, but the wine still retaining its racehorse structure and energy. I’d strongly recommend decanting it you’re going to drink it now, possibly even opening it the day before.
17.5/20 Tamlyn Currin / www.jancisrobinson.com
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