Produced from vines growing on Silex, the classic flint of Pouilly-Fumé and the source of the smoky element found in these wines. One can see the quality of the vineyards and their influence immediately, there is little varietal Sauvignon character. Here the grape is the vehicle which carries the terroir. It is relatively full bodied and round, with a nose of apricot and yellow plum above a background of gunflint and smoke. The balance is lovely, with the refreshing, focussed acidity well integrated, supporting the feeling of density and mid palate concentration. Super wine, and so food friendly, I was hungry just tasting it; I can imagine this working brilliantly with smoked fish dishes, or chicken, bacon and mushroom pie.
About the Domaine
This small domaine in the heart of Menetou-Salon was created in 2003 by Laurence and Géraud de Farge. Laurence’s father Bernard was involved in setting up the Menetou-Salon appellation in 1959 and her passion for this land is obvious. They are now in the process of handing over to their son, Antoine.
With just 10 hectares of vines they know every inch of their vineyards and harvest by hand, unusual in these parts. The soils, like Sancerre, are limestone and clay, ideally suited to both Sauvignon Blanc, which makes up 80% of their vines, and Pinot Noir. Yields and quality are controlled by de-budding and careful sorting prior to vinification.
Antoine de la Farge is an ambitious young man and a skilful wine maker. As well as taking over from his parents at Domaine de l’Ermitage in Menetou Salon he has developed a range of wines under his own name, designed to showcase the grapes and appellations of the Eastern Loire. These wines are produced on a small scale and with great care – Antoine works with growers his family have known for years, everything is picked by hand and fermentations happen naturally. The wines are made in stainless steel to emphasise their purity and freshness.