Background

After several visits we are pleased to have begun working with Philippe Harmand and his father Gérard. Philippe is now in control of wine making and viticulture and while both remain largely traditional, he is beginning to introduce new canopy management techniques, as well as making changes in the winery. In the vineyard they practice lutte raisonnée, no herbicides or pesticides have been used for over 30 years. They let the grass grow between the vines over winter and plough between the rows when the soils dry. A green harvest controls yields. Philippe is careful to keep the leaves around the bunches. As the suns direct rays and heat burns off acidity this provides shade for the grapes; he feels this gives his wines extra freshness.

In the winery no stalks are used, the grapes see a five-day cold soak before fermentation with natural yeasts. The village and 1er wines see between 20-40% new oak, the Grand Cru 90%. Gevrey purists, they have a serious line up of sites including Lavaux, Champeaux and Mazi Grand Cru. Their Monopole, La Bossière, is Gevrey’s smallest 1er Cru and one of the highest, giving a fine, mineral wine. The Gevrey Vieilles Vignes comes from 50-80-year-old vines which grow below 1er Cru Champeaux to the north of the village in the Brochon sector.

These are classically styled Gevrey that will please traditionalists, although I feel Philippe is beginning to find a new focus and poise in the wines. With his energy and the domaines old vines I think exciting times lie ahead for Harmand-Geoffroy.

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