Minerality and complexity
The Fèvre family have deep roots in Chablis – so it is no surprise that they farm some of its best vineyards. From the early days of Zephyr Fèvre, through Marcel, Gilles’s great grandfather, to his grandfather Bernard and father Jacques the family seems to have had a vision unbroken by the generations; a belief in Chablis, its land and the quality of its wines. They bought plots, and re-planted others, often in not only the best vineyards, but the most favoured plots within each site. Gilles, working alongside his wife Nathalie, has not just inherited this spirit, but built on it and re-imagined it for the future. Now their daughter Julie has joined the domaine and is already showing a similar tenacity and vision. It must be something in the water… Or the wine!
Nathalie Fèvre
“We work in the simplest way possible as to let our fabulous terroirs express their minerality and complexity.”
Their collection of 1er Crus includes some of Chablis’ most recognised and distinctive names. These are vineyards which have proved themselves over many vintages – each has its own unique character. Great care is taken at Fèvre, both in their farming and in their winery, to express this. The resulting wines are classic Chablis, they show the outstanding purity and minerality for which the area’s limestone and Kimmeridge soils are justly famous.
Below you will find our current availability of these wines, alongside my vineyard descriptions and tasting notes from Jasper Morris MW / www.insideburgundy.com. Although there’s nothing wrong with drinking them now, all of the wines would benefit from a little more time, so we have offered them In Bond, ex of UK taxes. Full details below. We can store the wines on your behalf, until they reach the perfect time to drink. We’re happy to store mixed cases, so if you would like me to help choose a dozen for you, please just ask.
To place your order or to discuss any of the wines in this offer simply email jack@robertrolls.com, or call on 020 3215 0011.
The Wines
Mont de Milieu
South-west of the Grand Crus, beyond Montée de Tonnerre, lies Mont de Milieu, where we find red clay over the limestone and a microclimate that gives wine which can be rich and almost opulent when young, before the limestone structure and spine becomes clear with age. Give these wines 6-8 years to see their minerality shine.
Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2018
£114.00/6 bottles in bond
“Pale lemon and lime, some reduction fighting with an extra richness of fruit here. Excellent tension behind, then a plumper finish, medium length, a wine, which complements the Fourchaume. This holding (not their own, but part of a grape exchange) faces due, south and offers weight and tension. Reduction defines the finish (in a good way).”
92pts ★ ★ ★★*
Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2020
£132.00/6 bottles in bond
“Pale lemon colour, a little whiff of coconut, but the wine is not too exotic. Some wood here. Lovely depth to the fruit here, a little bitterness at the finish which works quite well alongside the suavity and depth of fruit. Drink from 2025-2032.”
92pts ★ ★ ★★*
Fourchaume
Amongst the most recognisable of the Chablis 1er Cru vineyards is Fourchaume, sitting just above the Serine River. The Fèvre vines lie in the section with a south-westerly aspect, planted on near pure limestone. The oldest vines date from 1942. This wine always has a richness from its sunny exposition which is countered by a fine mineral spine from the Limestone below.
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume 2020
£120.00/6 bottles in bond
“More lime than lemon in the colour. A beautifully pure bouquet, suggesting a cashmere softness but with muscle behind. Dense white fruit throughout, good grip behind which it needs to avoid excess richness. The balance has been well managed, and there is a crystalline touch to the finish. Drink from 2025-2031.”
92pts ★ ★ ★★*
Montée de Tonnerre
Probably the most famous 1er Cru in Chablis. A new wine at Fèvre, they swap the grapes with a family friend. Currently not certified organic, but in conversion. South-west facing and planted on white clay with lots of stones. Another wine which combines richness with finesse, and which can age fabulously. Famous for the small, concentrated, berries the vines give, as well as the balance and complexity of its wines.
Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2020
£138.00/6 bottles in bond
“Half has been made in a cement egg, half in barrel. Bottled in January. More lemon than lime. There is a healthy balanced exuberance about the bouquet which pleases, showing right bank generosity. But you cannot keep the salinity down either. Delicious juicy finish to this, very classy, with a mix of white fruit with some ripe citrus. Fine crystalline finish. Good wine. Drink from 2025-2032.”
93pts ★ ★ ★★*
Vaulorent
Nathalie thinks this wine has ‘the memory of the sea’ and one can imagine the ancient shellfish in the wine’s spine of minerality. Vaulorent lies south of Fourchaume and can be bottled as such. However, with more clay the wines tend to be more powerful and deeper. The Fèvre parcel, one of the best, has a particularly rocky soil as well as a very good south-western exposure. Planted between 1955 and 1975. It sees a little oak, around 15-20%, not all new and for structure rather than flavour. Jasper Morris calls Vaulorent ‘the most complete and satisfying of the 1er Crus”.
Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 2018
£144.00/6 bottles in bond
“Pale colour with the classic lime green tint. With this comes the now familiar reductive nose. This is stricter, more chiseled than I remember, up front, then fattens out well behind, with a zesty finish that cannot quite disguise the attractive floral notes. There is also an impressive persistence of fruit here. It has been made with 20% wood of, which half was new.”
93pts ★ ★ ★★*
Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 2019
£138.00/6 bottles in bond
“Clear pale colour. This is beautifully balanced on the nose, with a wealth of fruit on the palate without being exotic. The 2019 Vaulorent offers more depth than usual, just a little spice at the back but still with salinity and tension. Very complete with excellent length. This wine can carry the vintage.”
93pts ★ ★ ★★*
Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 2020
£168.00/6 bottles in bond
“Bottled in January. Pale lemon and lime. What a fine classy bouquet, with Vaulorent opulence yet classical balance. Excellent tension, but still such a baby. This will be worth a ten year wait. Still tightly wound despite its cashmere overcoat. Drink from 2026-2034.”
94pts ★ ★ ★★★*
*Tasting notes and scores from Jasper Morris MW www.insideburgundy.com