Jean-Paul Brun, Beaujolais star and all round bon oeuf, is a fantastic man to taste with. He knows every inch of his vineyards, building his domaine piece by piece. He’s a thoughtful guy – one gets the feeling that everything is considered, nothing left to chance, and there’s always something new to discover. So for today’s offer we have new vintages of two old favourites, the ever brilliant Beaujolais Blanc Cuvee Classic and one of Jean-Paul’s most loved cuvees, the Beaujolais Ancien, as well as two wines new to us. The Beaujolais Ronsay is light and fragrant, juicy and refreshing – perfect summer fare. The Roussanne is a wonderful interpretation of the grape, giving this southern variety a northern finesse and elegance. It’s already claimed a place in my wines of the summer list – please do give it a try!
Mixed Dozen Offer – Save 5%
Three bottles of each including delivery
£186.00
Whites
Beaujolais Blanc ‘Cuvee Classic’ 2019
£16.95 per bottle
Such a consistent wine, year in, year out the quality is superb. From a single 85 year old vineyard growing on limestone. Jean-Paul could label this Bourgogne Blanc, and sell it for more, but chooses not to – he believes in raising the status and profile of Beaujolais. Fermented and aged in stainless steel to preserve freshness and emphasise fruit. The 2019 is a little less weighty than the ’18, with a racier profile and cool citrus and peach fruit. The concentrated palate is supported by sherbet tinged acidity, there’s a freshness and pleasing crunch which contrasts nicely with the rich fruit. Very vibrant with plenty of tension and interest.
Roussanne Vin de France 2019
£17.95 per bottle
Unusual to find this grape so far north but Jean-Paul is onto something. Normally found in the Northern Rhone, where, blended with Marsanne, it makes the great whites of Hermitage and St Joseph. It is known for its tremendous texture and richness in the Rhone but in the cooler climate of Charnay it gives a more delicate wine with lovely floral aromatics. Charnay is about as far north as Roussanne will ripen. Jean-Paul thinks that a marginal climate often gives the finest wines, and planted 1ha of Roussanne 10 years ago. The 2019 combines peachy apricot fruit with citrus freshness and notes of elderflower and honeysuckle. Unusually delicious wine.
Reds
Beaujolais le Ronsay 2020
£13.95 per bottle
This wine is fermented and aged entirely in concrete, Jean-Paul wants to keep the spotlight on Gamay’s exuberant fruit. He uses his youngest vines across the domaine to make it, he values their easy going, juicy fruit – its a wine for laughter and friends. It is light and fragrant, with flavours that remind one of raspberries taken fresh from the fridge. Beautifully poised, refreshing, this is delicious chilled – bottles disappear all too quickly when poured on a warm day.
Beaujolais l’Ancien 2019
£16.95 per bottle
Produced from old vines grown on clay and granite this wine is synonymous with Jean-Paul’s domaine. He thinks this wine is similar to the Beaujolais of the past, before new techniques changed its character. Dark fruited and structured and best with rustic foods like duck or pork. Outstanding value. In contrast to le Ronsay this sees some oak, but nothing new. Riper and fuller but also more structured, with fine tannins giving some grip. Dark berry fruits, crunchy and pure, alongside dried herbs and wood smoke. A great vintage for this old favourite.