Michel Caillot’s domaine, in the village of Meursault, has a somewhat Heath Robinson air about it – but explore inside these deep, cold cellars and you will find a unique collection of wines. Michel is a proponent of long lees ageing. After a year in barrel, he transfers his wines to tank alongside their lees, where they remain for up to three or even four years post-harvest. This extended lees contact gives the wines extra complexity and character, as well as providing them with a measure of protection against oxidation – ready to drink on release, they also age remarkably well.
Whole clusters and wild yeasts are the norm here; the wines are moved mainly by gravity and racked just once, from barrel to tank, between fermentation and bottling, which takes place with no filtration. The top 1er and Grand Crus see 50-70% new oak, the other wines 10-25%. The oak is carefully managed, it remains in the background supporting rather than masking the flavours of each vineyard. These are singular, expressive wines which show a different side to white Burgundy. These are not reductive, mineral wines in the somewhat generic modern style. They are full-flavoured, textured, with good underlying acidity and grip, blending pithy citrus fruit with an uncommon savoury depth.
Mixed Six Bottle Sampler
Three village, and one each of the single vineyards
£270.00 including delivery
The Wines
Meursault 2015
£46.95 or £267.62 per six bottles
Caillot’s village Meursault, from a number of vineyards across the village shows 2015s concentration and extract, but doesn’t sacrifice freshness – it is a direct wine with great ‘cut’. It’s a great introduction to Michel’s stye with its deep ripe fruit and complex notes of leather, citrus pith and honey.
Meursault La Barre Dessus Clos Marguerite 2015
£51.95 or £296.12 per six bottles
Just over a wall from Lafon’s famous Clos de la Barre. However, the soil in La Barre Dessus isn’t as stony, and gives a richer, less structured wine which matures earlier. Lovely sense of Meursault depth here, with succulent fruit and Caillot’s trademark savoury breadth.
Meursault Tessons 2017
£51.95 or £296.12 per six bottles
Tessons lies to the west of Meursault, at approximately the same height as Les Perrières and the top of Genevrières. It is steeply sloped with poor, easily eroded soil and well exposed to the East. Perhaps just a little cool for 1er Cru status, it is nevertheless one of the top Lieu-Dit of the village. In Michel’s 2017 we find plenty of evidence for the quality, and relative coolness, of the site – it is racy, intense and almost painfully tight today, but opens with time in the glass to show fresh lemon and lime fruit, alongside the breadth of Meursault and the more savoury depth which comes with Caillot’s long lees ageing.
Meursault Clos du Cromin 2015
£52.95 or £301.82 per six bottles
I often think this is Caillot’s finest Meursault – it shows a balance between rich, succulent fruit and racy, mineral acidity that really excites me.
Magnums & Halves
Michel is a great fan of big, and small, bottles – increasingly unusual for white Burgundy. We have shipped a good selection, and can currently offer:
Halves
Meursault La Barre Dessus Clos Marguerite 2015
£26.95 or £307.23 per 12 halves
Magnums
Meursault 2015
£96.50 or £550.00 per six magnums
Meursault La Barre Dessus Clos Marguerite 2015
£104.50 or £595.65 per six magnums
Meursault Clos du Cromin 2015
£106.50 or £607.00 per six magnums
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2015
£150.00 or £855.00 per six magnums